Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Take a bow and say goodbye

Well it’s been a while since I posted. Nothing too exciting has happened. Today is the last day of July classes- I really can’t believe that it’s the end of July already. The lack of warm weather has left me wondering “when is summer going to start?” The weather has been a bit warmer than it was in June though, so I am thankful for that.

I taught Basic 9 and Intermediate 4 this month. I went out to eat with my Basic 9 class on Monday night and we’re going out again for Chifa tonight after the exam. Chifa is the wonderful blend of Peruvian and Chinese food. The best part about Chifa is the names of the restaurants. They’re all over town. The one I walk by to go to SALI is called “Heng Lung”. Becca and I ate at Fuk Hou on Sunday night.

Tomorrow night we’re leaving for Cuzco. We’ll take the fancy night bus (the seats fold down completely flat!) to Lima and then take a flight Friday morning to Cuzco. We’ll stay at a few different hostels and see Machu Picchu on Sunday morning (taking the 5:30 am train to get to it). The 28th of July is Peru’s independence day and they get pretty into it, so hopefully that won’t hinder our travels too much. We’ll spend 2 days in Cuzco and head back to Lima on Tuesday, July 31st. Becca and I will hang out there for 2 days until her flight leaves for the US and I’ll take a bus back to Trujillo for another month of teaching. All in all it should be really good. Everyone I’ve talked to says that Machu Picchu is just breathtaking. We’re going to try to climb the mountain there too. Hopefully I’ll manage to hang onto my camera and take a lot of pictures.

Most of the summer crew is leaving over the course of the next week. Chase and I will be the only summer people staying through August. I have mixed feelings about the whole thing right now, probably just because I’m so sad to see them all go. Maybe I’m a little jealous that they all get to reunite with their families and friends back home so soon. I still have so much reading I wanted to do this summer. Maybe someday I’ll finish Anna Karenina. I expected to have so much down time but the opposite has been true!

Okay more to come later...

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

welcome to peru

First I would like to say congratulations again to a very close friend on her happy news! Even though I’m all the way down here, I’m still sharing in your joy and excitement! It makes me so happy to think of you so happy.

On the other hand, I seem to be on a “less healthy” streak. It’s nothing serious, but I’ve had quite a few migraines since I’ve been here and I currently have a head-cold of sorts. Either it’s a bad cold or my allergy medicine just decided to stop working. The headaches are probably stress related because it seems that I am stressed out no matter my circumstances. Here’s a lovely little example: Friday afternoon I was finishing making my tests (that I needed about 2 hours later to give to my classes) and I simply could not get the new Microsoft Word 2007 to stop making these random lines in the middle of the page. The back button wouldn’t undo anything and I couldn’t for the life of my get rid of the stupid lines across my test for quite a while. After a while I stood up and walked away from the computer and I was really losing it. I sat down again because we were about to start a meeting, and tried a few more times and then there I am, crying at my computer because I couldn’t erase the lines across my test. Poor Matt sitting next to me. He was really nice about it, of course, but I just get so worked up over nothing. It really is a problem, and more likely a symptom of a deeper problem. In any event, I would really appreciate prayer for my health and that I wouldn’t be so stressed out all the time.

WARNING: only continue reading if you are bored, and care to understand the culture and inefficiency here in Peru.

Saturday Becca and I walked all around Trujillo. I had hoped our two errands would take about 4 hours (making allowances for the terrible inefficiency down here) but it actually took us from 12:30 to 7:30 to accomplish our small tasks. First we looked for fabric to bring to the tailor to have pants made. That was quite a fiasco. We didn’t find what we wanted in the town center so we went out to one of the 3 major (underground economy) malls to see what they had. Becca found some really nice alpaca wool for khakis. By this time, it’s already about 2:30ish. I found some really nice navy wool for a blazer, but I want to make sure I know a good tailor before I invest in that because it’ll be pricey. Our next task was to find some tea light candles for the coffee house on Thursday night since Becca and I are in charge of decorations. How hard can it be to find candles in a city of about 1 million people? I had asked a Peruvian friend earlier in the week where candles could be found and she told me in Zona Franca so to Zona Franca we went. She had told me the second floor of the mall so we started there. We looked around, and not finding any, asked someone who worked there where candles are sold. He told us the 3rd floor. On the third floor we didn’t find any either so we asked again. She told us on the 4th floor. So we went to the 4th floor, and another lady told us we could find them on the second floor. In truth, no one had any idea where there were candles, and just keep naming random floors! Finally one lady suggested El Virey, another shopping mall across the street. We went there and finally found candles in a window display! But alas, what a cruel joke- the store was closed. We thought that perhaps it had closed for siesta and decided to come back at 4. By this time it was already 3:30 so we thought it was worth waiting. As we wondered around the third floor of the mall, we saw a place to get manicures and decided we’d go back there and get manicures (for only 5 soles) while we waited as soon as we checked for other candle stores. We poked in a few other stores. I bought a really cute cream skirt with blue flowers on it that I am currently wearing as I write this. But when we wanted to go back to get manicures and candles, we couldn’t find the store! This may seem hard to believe, because we ourselves were bewildered, but we walked around the third floor of El Virey for at least 30 minutes. All the shop owners laughed at us as we walked by them for the 5th or 6th time. The way these malls are laid out is so confusing- none of the stores have signs and they’re so small. Finally we gave up and bought expensive tea light candles from the Indian store. We were both exhausted.

We took a cab to one of our favorite cafes and had a late lunch/early dinner. On the TV in the cafĂ© they were announcing the Seven New Wonders of the World. Everyone was watching to see if Machu Picchu would win. When they announced it (in English) Becca yelled out “Machu Picchu” and everyone cheered! It’s funny how when you’re in public when events happen, you feel a sudden camaraderie with complete strangers around you. It was exciting to be with a bunch of Peruvians when the announcement was made. I will say though, that if you watched the ceremony, you’d think Peruvians don’t know how to wear suits. All the other countries had their representatives wear suits (the Indian representative did wear more traditional clothing but they actually still wear those) but the Peruvian guy looked like he stepped right out of The Emperor’s New Groove. Please don’t think Peruvians don’t know how to wear suits- they may not be very nice suits, but plenty of people are wearing them.

We stopped in one more fabric store and after a bit of difficulty, I bought some grey fabric. Then, with Sara, we went to the tailor on the other side of town. It took at least an hour and a half to tell the tailor about the 4 pairs of pants that we wanted between the three of us and get our measurements taken. By the time we got back to SALI, I was ready to crash. Thus it was another relaxing Saturday here in Peru.

Sunday night I went to Teresa's house for tea. The tea was tasty but not very hot, and we ate saltines with a little jelly on them (which is actually quite good). It amazes me how different the 'middle class' of Peru is from the middle class in America. I think Teresa would be considered middle class. She is one of 7 siblings and lives in a decent neighborhood. The lighting inside the main room consists of a few exposed light bulbs. The floor is cement (compared to the "poor" people's dirt floors). There are a few chairs arranged for chatting, a big table with more chairs, and a nice cabinet with tea cups inside. That was it though. The walls are bare white cement. There are no interior doors that I could see, only openings. I've been in other houses that do have wooden doors though, or curtains. What amazes me is that having known Teresa for a while now, and she always looks so cute with her straight leg jeans and tacos (high heels), I was somehow unprepared to believe that she lives with so little. Compared to plenty of people she isn't poor, but if she lived in that sort of house in America, everyone would consider her impoverished. She's the first generation in her family to go to university. Teresa and I walk around Wichanzao (the poorest part of Trujillo) every Thursday to visit the women in the microfinance program. Last Thursday we visited Bertha, who makes cakes out of her home. She watches her grandson while her daughter works two jobs and goes to school every day from about 5 am until late at night. They had a packed down dirt floor and probably half of their belongings around the room we sat in. Once you get past the material differences though, everyone here in Peru has the same basic human needs as we do in the US. However, when you are hungry and tired from working all day, everyday, your mind probably dwells more on immediate problems than the more abstract.

We are so blessed in America. I love America for its efficiency, but am frustrated by its selfish luxury. The southerners down here keep reminding me that Connecticut is both the richest state, and the one that gives the least to charity.

Monday, July 2, 2007

note to self: go to a L'Abri

Last night at the Ferguson's, Brian told us about how he studied at the L'Abri in Massachusetts for a few weeks a few years ago. I decided this might be a really good idea. If you don't know what it is, check out their website http://www.labri.org/ . Basically it's a Christian study center for people with questions (both Christians and seekers) where you study for a few hours each day from their big library and extensive collection of recorded sermons. You also do chores for a few hours a day, and the rest of the time is spent talking and eating with the other people there. As soon as he mentioned it, I decided it was something I'd like to try. There is one in Southborough, Mass, and also one in southern Sweden... so maybe I'll try to go to the Swedish one in the spring or the Mass one when I get back next summer.

Today has been very relaxing. I didn't get out of bed until 12 because I didn't feel very well, but now I feel better. I'm starting to get excited about Sweden- not that it's all that soon but it's on the horizon.

Saturday, June 30, 2007

Already the end of June...

Is it just me or is summer flying by? I feel like I've done so much here and yet so little. June classes are over and July classes start on Tuesday. It's going to be weird to celebrate the 4th of July here under the cold and cloud-filled sky. How I long for a sunny afternoon at the beach!


Last Saturday night Becca and I got a taste of Peruvian nightlife when we went out with Fiorella, Natali, and Cynthia. We got to this bar/live music joint at about 10:30 after Becca and I went to youth group at the church. It's called TributoBar and has pretty good atmosphere. It was pretty empty so we could chat. People really started filling in and then packing the place around 11:30-12. At 12:15ish a band started playing a bunch of covers. They were actually quite good. We enjoyed ourselves. One funny thing about Peruvian nightlife is the picture taking. Every 20 minutes or so someone with a badge would come over and ask if they could take a picture of your group. Then they give you a little business card with the website you can go to to view your picture. Here is an example:



After listening to the music for a bit we stopped over at this other restaurant/bar/club where we got our fill of really funny 80's music. There was a crazy strobe light that came on occasionally and it looked like everyone was moving in slow motion. Oh and how could I forget the bubbles. All in all it was interesting to see what Peruvian night life looks like, though I don't expect to go back or out like that again. Hopefully we can find a place to do some folk dancing though.

I went out with some of my students again on Wednesday night after their final exam for the month. No mollejitas this time, thankfully. We had chicken-egg sandwiches at a semi-fast food joint. It's been nice getting to know them better.

On a more spiritual note, I was thinking of an old Michael Card song this week. Sometimes I feel like I must be crazy to believe the Gospel, and yet I can't fight the conviction that it is true and there is nothing else. Friends of John and Heather (long term missionaries here) just lost their 2 year old son because he had so much brain damage from almost drowning in their bath tub. They had to take him off life-support and watch their baby die. When Heather asked her friend if she had lost faith because of the events, her friend said "how can I? what else is there?" I feel so blessed to be untouched by real tragedy, but so much pain exists in the world. I ask myself if it's all just a story that we want to believe. At the end of the day though, despite my doubt, I'm just praying that God will increase my faith. Here's the song. It's a great one.

God’s Own Fool by Michael Card

It seems I've imagined him all of my life

As the wisest of all of mankind.

But if God's holy wisdom is foolish to men,

He must have seemed out of his mind.

For even his family said he was mad,

And the priests said "A demon's to blame."

But God in the form of this angry young man

Could not have seemed perfectly sane.

CHORUS:

When we in our foolishness thought we were wise,

He played the fool, and he opened our eyes.

When we in our weakness believed we were strong,

He became helpless to show we were wrong.

And so we follow God's own fool;

For only the foolish can tell.

Believe the unbelievable;

Come be a fool as well.

So come lose your life for a carpenter's son,

For a mad-man who died for a dream.

And you'll have the faith the first followers had,

And you'll feel the weight of the beam.

So surrender the hunger to say you must know,

Have the courage to say "I believe."

For the power of paradox opens your eyes,

And blinds those who say they can see.

Saturday, June 23, 2007

Another Saturday in Trujillo

I have become an expert shopper here in Trujillo. So much for "I should buy clothes before I go because I won't be able to buy stuff there." Last weekend I bought a bright yellow jacket (to keep warm in this especially chilly winter we're having), a really cute brown shirt with cool sleeves, and two long-sleeved T's to keep warm. Today Becca, Julie, and I ventured out again but this time we went with Fuerela, one of our Peruvian friends from Sociedad San Agustin (the Peruvian equivalent of RUF). I bought moccasins at the shoe market - picture an entire mall of teeny-tiny shoe shops all selling very similar wares- and some fun accessories at the Peruvian "Claire's" which is called "Do It". There is one really great store in Trujillo called TopyTop. The clothes are really cute and quite affordable to us (given every dollar = 3 soles). TopyTop is actually a supplier to Hollister and Abercrombie, but the clothes just don't have the brand printed across the front. I did see two shirts that actually said "Hollister" today.

I also found a taylor who makes quite fashionable clothes and said she can have them ready in 24 hours! It'll be an investment, but less of an investment here than in the states, so I think I might have a really cute suit made. Basically I get to design it, and find/draw some pictures and she'll make it happen for about $150 I think. I'm not sure if the fabric costs extra but I'll go back when I have a better idea of what I want. The thought of having my own designs made by someone else for me is really exciting.

Of course I do more here than just shop. My intermediate 3 students took their third quiz yesterday and I went out with 3 of them afterwards to get some food. At this point I had one of my first eat-to-be-polite experiences here in Peru. Usually the food is great, but at this perticular restaurant, all they serve is chicken colon broiled in its juices with a side of yuca. It was soo cruchy and chewy and all I could think about was that I was eating colon and I'll probably get some terrible parasite! Of course, Victor kept saying, "eat more Michelle, it's 'muy rico'." In any event, I had more than enough colon and ate lots of yuca. Good thing there was Coke to wash it all down.

I took my conversation class on a field trip yesterday. We walked down to an art exhibit in one of the old colonial houses, looked at the art, and talked a bit about the history of Trujillo. It's cool "teaching" adults because they can teach me all sorts of interesting things about Peru. The best thing about the walk was that one of my students who hardly speaks in class was very chatty with me on the 10 minute walk each way. Her English is actually quite good but I think she's embarrassed to speak in front the of the class. It was nice for us all to talk to each other in another environment too. I've really enjoyed getting to know them. I'm sad I only have 3 more days with them because in July I'm not teaching conversation anymore. I'll be teaching Basic 9, which I've heard is fun to teach because instead of working through a grammar book, the students read super abridged versions of The Little Princess and The Wizard of Oz, and then you talk about it and work on their writing skills. The students are in each level for a month, which works out to 18 classes per level. It goes Basic 1-10, Intermediate 1-10, and Advanced 1-5 I think. We also encourage everyone in Intermediate and Advanced to take conversation (which is just for practice; there's no grading or out of class work). Ideally, if the student works hard and sticks with the program, he or she can walk into SALI without knowing how to say "hello" and walk out 2 and a half years later totally fluent. The fact that every class above Basic 5 is taught by a native speaker is a real advantage. The other language institutes in the city don't have as many native speakers for teachers and much larger class sizes. We demand a lot of our students; if I was learning Spanish in the US I don't think I would be willing to devote an hour and a half every weekday evening or morning to Spanish classes, plus homework in the workbook every night, and a chapter test every Friday that includes a speaking test. The scholarship kids have to maintain an 80 to keep their scholarships. It's pretty rigorous.

I decided not to go to Chile and Argentina this summer at the end of my Cuzco trip. It would be really expensive and I'll probably be really tired after teaching in July and traveling around Peru for 5 or 6 days. Thus after all the other summer interns (except Chase) leave at the end of July, I'll probably head up to Cajamarca, a mountain town farther north. PeruMission was originally established there, and I can stay with Pastor Ramirez and his family probably. I hear it's beautiful and a good place to relax. Life is a bit slower there than in the city where I live now.
Last weekend we went to Chan Chan, some pre-Inca ruins, with a bunch of SALI students. It was a good time to get to know people better, though only one of my students actually came. Fuerela and Natalie were there though, so we hung out. Here's a picture of us. By the way, that day was the ONLY day in the month I've been here that I could wear a tank top. I embraced the sun- it's almost always overcast here.

I've been playing soccer most Tuesday and Thursday nights. It's better now because I know all the guys' names and they know me. It feels good to get some exercise! Not that we don't do a lot of walking around town, but after sitting in Gringolandia all day, I feel the urge to run around a bit. It's weird playing on concrete without any walls around the court. I played on concrete sometimes in Brazil and a lot in Spain, but this whole "no walls" thing makes the game a lot different. It's all about ball control and dribbling past people. We usually play 6 on 6. When the ball goes out, pretty much anybody can put it back in play- no throw in's necessary. Sometimes they roll it in, sometimes they toss it with one arm, sometimes they drop it at their own feet and start dribbling. There's no such thing as a push, trip, or offsides. Really there are no rules except that you can't shoot from behind a certain line. Once you except the fact that no rules apply (though sometimes they call hand-balls), it's actually quite freeing. I think I pulled my hamstring on Thursday but hopefully it'll feel better for Tuesday. What's great is that playing soccer with the guys (and a few girls too) gives us the opportunity to get to know them and invite them to youth group and church, which are right across the street. They all know Pastor Ricardo (he lives right near the soccer court) and his wife and sometimes they play with us. Sydney, Matt, and Joe always play too so I'm not the only gringo. It's a good time.
Okay well I should go do some grading. Now I better understand the life of a teacher! Thanks for all the prayers and sorry I haven't been so good at keeping in touch. My computer hasn't been working a lot and there's always so much going on! To Vista Hermosa....

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

my first homesick night and some amazing pictures

I would rank tonight as my first homesick night. Considering I've been here for close to a month, that's not too bad. I sat out on the top balcony looking at the hazy, yet lit up night sky for a while thinking of the recent 4th of July night sky that looked the same. Even though the sky was completely clouded over, they launched the fireworks anyway and the sky just turned completely green or completely red with each bang. It was a good 4th of July...

Since I'm feeling a bit melancholy, I will venture to say that rather than being "really busy" I am in fact "too busy." I feel the need to stop and isolate myself from the hustle and bustle of the corner of Larco Av. and Espana Av. where the sound of taxi horns never stops. Today I watched some young guys, probably about 17 years old though perhaps older, doing flips in front of the lanes of taxis during the red lights and then asking for tips. Yesterday it was a lady with flags. You know the economy isn't providing enough jobs when strong and flexible young men are doing gymnastics in the street for money (and in all the time I watched, no one actually gave them any so I doubt its very lucrative). Time is just flying by- it'll be August 31st before I know it. And while I'm a little homesick tonight, I don't actually want to leave. I'm really happy here- I just wish I had more hours in the day to do and see everything I'd like. I'd like to spend some time hanging out at the National University just attempting to talk to students. I told the microfinance guys I'd look for micro business training materials. I'm only teaching 2 classes a day now but I spend several hours a day planning for them. I'm trying to play soccer with some of the kids in the church neighborhood every Tuesday and Thursday (and when I say kids, I really mean young men mostly- ages ranging from 16-28 or so- and me and Sydney and a few other english teachers). Additionally there is something going on all the time around here. People are constantly walking to markets and the plaza. Monday I went to this huge market where they sell pretty much every vegetable, spice, herb, meat, etc. and some flowers. I bought a huge bouquet of flowers for 4 soles (about $1.30). In the states it probably would have cost at least $40. Oh that's another thing, we refer to the US as "the states" almost exclusively among the teachers and missionary families. Also, I've added "y'all" to my daily vocabulary- it couldn't be helped. Everyone is Southern.

Tonight we're going to Hops, a pretty contemporary microbrewery, for Jazz night. In fact, Wednesday night Jazz night at Hops is the only night and place you can hear the only live jazz band preform in the entire city of Trujillo. Live bands are not common around here. There are some cellists coming to the opera house to do a concert on Thursday but I think I'll play soccer. So much to do, so little time. I wish I had time to read!


We're planning our trip for the end of July/beginning of August. Right now it sounds like Cuzco and Macchu Pichu for the first few and then Santiago, Chile, and possibly Mendozza, Argentina, for the last few. It might get a lil pricey but I can't turn down an opportunity like this.

Oh so I never finished talking about my trip to Huaraz. On Saturday we drove up into the mountains through this ravine for 2.5 hours. When the road ended we got out of the vans and walked up another 45 minutes to reach the glacier. I'm out of shape and the thin air didn't help. Our climbing sight was at about 5,000 meters - pretty high up. I felt dizzy every time I stood up or sat down. It was so beautiful. The mountains were so majestic I couldn't believe I was observing that scenery in person. Climbing the ice was a real adreneline rush. I watched the other climbers before me so I had pretty good technique and it wasn't too difficult. It's a good thing the ice picks are strapped to your hands though because by the time you get to the top, your hands are just so tired.

The first picture is me and Matt, with our Israeli friends climbing in the background. Then you have a more distant view where you can see the glacier we were climbing on. Below I am hanging upside down from my rope after climbing. And then there is a lovely picture I took on the drive back to town. Okay, and now to Hops.

Friday, June 8, 2007

note to self: buy pink grapefruit soap from bath and body upon return

Well it appears I'm a slacker when it comes to updating this blog. It's just so much more fun to be out there living life in Peru than journaling about it after. I am currently sitting in a classroom watching my 4 students squirm a little as they take their first unit exam. I personally think it's pretty easy so I hope they do well (I did make it so I might be biased.) I'm really enjoying teaching. I teach a conversation class from 4:15 to 5:15 every day and a grammar class (Intermediate 3) from 5:45 to 7:10 every evening. I spend a big chunck of every morning and afternoon preparing for these classes. My students are mostly university students or recent graduates. One girl in my grammar class is still in high school. The test they are taking right now is mostly testing their use of "have to" to show obligation and "should/must" to give advice. In my conversation class today we talked about AIDS in Africa, whether its better to live in the mountains of Peru or on the coast, and then did some role playing for various situations. We also talked about cowboys in Texas. I told them I might invite Matt or Chase to come to our class since they're Texans and a rather amusing pair.


So last week I went to Huaraz, a bustling little town nestled in the Andes. We took a nine-hour bus ride during the night on a double-decker bus to get there. The bus was pretty comfortable. Even though I took lots of meds I still felt pretty sick when we arrived- though I never threw up the whole weekend even though we were winding here and there on these tiny, cliff-side roads. Eleven of us went together: 2 of the "old interns" and 9 of the new ones. It was a good group bonding experience in addition to the fact that I don't think I've ever in my entire life seen such beautiful, breathtaking scenery.

This was the view from my window at the hostel. Okay now the test is finished and my students invited me to go out to a bar with them so... I'll finish this later! Stay tuned.